Siena and the Palio

giovedi, 4 luglio

I just returned from a few days in Siena.  Siena is a beautiful medieval city.  I have been there a few times but this trip was specifically to see the magic and pageantry of the "Palio".

I posted quite a few pictures on Facebook but here is the back story to the photos and the race. I have inserted still photos throughout the blog but I have also created a video and the YouTube link is at the end.

The Palio is a horse race but not just any horse race.  This race dates back to 1633.  Now that's historic!  Siena's neighbourhoods are called Contrade.  Originally there were 50+ contrade but today there are 17.  Each one has a name, for example, Eagle, Snail, Little Owl, She-wolf, Dragon, Unicorn, etc.  as well as colours and a symbol.  In addition each contrada has a church, museum, fountain and baptismal font, etc.  For this Palio 10 contrade are selected to participate in the race.  The selection process is unique as is everything about this race.  As in Italy many rules but rules can be broken (of course).  

There are 2 races each year - July 2nd and August 16th.  Each one is named and in honour of  Madonna of Provenzano (July 2nd) and Assumption of Mary (August 16th).  There are many festivities a few days ahead of race day.  I chose to only attend on race day.

I arrived early in the morning on Monday.  I decided to go to the Piazza del Campo and get some "before" pictures.  On my way I stopped for caffè and pastry in one of the famous pastry shops.  As I was leaving the shop a horse was being led down the street - ok change of plans - FOLLOW THAT HORSE!  There are 4 trial runs before the race, the last one being run in the morning of the race.  This horse had just finished his trial (which I did not know at the time).  I just knew I had to follow that horse and see where he was going.  So I became part of the large group following this horse.  We arrived at his stable within the contrada.  I then learned I had been following the horse for She-Wolf or in Italian "Lupa".  I watched for quite some time as they tended to her.  She was given water and a bath and then some exercise.  It was very peaceful and I was able to get lots of pictures of her and her caregivers.  

All 17 flags for the contrade are flying here (not real easy to see)
Palazzo Salimbeni 

Following the crowd that is following the horse

The horse "Sorighittu" for La Lupa contrada

Preparing to re-shoe her.

I then decided to just wander around the city to do a little shopping and enjoy the atmosphere.  As I walked I was able to get pictures of the flags as I walked through the many contrade.  I had plenty of time as the race didn't start (or so I thought - but more on that later) until 7:30 p.m.  But I knew I had to get to the Piazza del Campo early if I wanted a good spot.  All the space in the center of the Piazza is free but you must sit and wait once inside.  You can buy a ticket for a seat in one of the many bleachers that are around the outside of the piazza.  They are hard to come by and you must plan well in advance.  In addition all the buildings around the piazza have seating at each window.  I assume they are VIP type seats/tickets and go to those in the know, politicians, business people, etc.  Today I would be with the sea of people in the center.   

Flags are everywhere within the contrada

Siena is very hilly so lots of exercise as you
walk around the city

Another contrada

Even without the Palio Siena is fabulous

Some amazing architecture within Piazza del Campo

And of course Italian fountains are fabulous

An old drinking fountain - and it still works
and you can drink the water (I didn't however)

Notice the bell having above

Second window from the right - Italian politicians
that were recently elected.  These are
VIP seats I guess.  😝

Around 3:30 I decided to go grab my spot.  I was able to find some shade and a good spot near the "mossa" or Start line.  Time would tell if they were great seats or just ok seats.   Around 5:30 the festivities begin.  There is a mounted horse guard that enters the track.  After that the procession begins.  Each contrada will march in - with their horse, flag bearers, and other costumed participants.  Their costumes are the same as in medieval times some even wearing armour.  The colours and pageantry are amazing.  At the end a wagon enters and it is pulled by 4 large white oxen.  The coveted banner that will go to the winner is displayed on the wagon.  

All participants from the procession are now seating
in special bleachers infront of the building.
The race is about the start.

It is now close to 7:30 and the race will start soon.  The horses enter and the crowd goes crazy as you can imagine.  The jockeys are riding bare back.  And I'm told some will fall off during the race but if a horse crosses the finish line first without a jockey he/she can still be the winner - no jockey necessary.  The jockeys and horses are all near the start and a hush comes over the crowd.  Who knew that that many people could be quiet for so long.  I caught most of this on the video.  The starter will now announce the position of the horses on the start line.  Once announced they are called to the start line.  This process will now be repeated numerous times and the race really does not start for another HOUR!!!  As you will see in the race video there really are no gates like we use in our races so the horses are side by side and jockeys play games with each other - trying to prevent each other from coming to the line.  This is all the gamesmanship that goes on.  I learn later this is normal and this was a "short" Mossa.  HA - I about died.  There were two false starts (but also maybe just a false start to allow the horses to run off some steam - they had been out there for quite some time).  Finally the race starts and its over in less than 2 minutes.  3 jockeys fall off - but "Drago" or Dragon is victorious.  And the members of that Contrada go crazy as you can imagine.   The horse and jockey and members of the Contrada now leave the Piazza and head to the Chiesa Della Madonna di Provenzano (Church of the Madonna of Provenzano) for which the race is named,  where the jockey and horse are celebrated inside the church.  

I asked my cousin and her boyfriend (who were my hosts) if betting is allowed on the race.  Absolutely not they said - this is a "holy race" - yet the jockeys can pay each other off - which happens alot.  If one contrada wants to make sure their enemy contrada does not win they can pay another jockey to cause trouble (not allowing them to the start line, etc.)   So there is alot of underhanded activity among the jockeys - but hey - this is a "holy race" - HAHA!!  Only in Italy.

I was back in the city the following morning for sometime before my bus left in the afternoon.  As I entered the city I could hear drums - so I followed the sound and wound up at the church in the Dragon Contrada.  A victory procession was just starting to form.  They would march though the city again today.  One of many celebrations that would occur all year long.  

It was an amazing experience and one I would like to experience again in a few years.  This is one of the things I love about Italy - they embrace their culture and history and it is celebrated in so many ways.  Complimenti Drago!!!

Here is the link to my YouTube Video of the day.  

https://youtu.be/l6RAYl8h7oM


Here is a short video of the actual race as called on Italian television.  

https://youtu.be/obGwP19sJLs

15 Minutes of Fame

martedì, 26 giugno


I'm back!  Yes after spending some time in the states and hosting some family for a few weeks I have decided to continue my blog.  I heard from so many people that they enjoy my stories so......here we go with My Year of Firsts .....continued!  This year I will continue to tell you about experiences that are "my first" but I will also blog about some travel and other things "Italian".

So you are probably wondering why I titled this one "15 Minutes of Fame".  Everyone knows the saying and that somewhere and sometime in every one's life you either have a touch with fame or actually participate and become "famous" (how ever you want to define it) for a short period of time.  Well I think I had my opportunity but continue reading to see how it ends.  Will I be famous or not? 

Late April I receive a Facebook Messenger message from a person I did not know.  She tells me she is a casting director for HGTV's show "Mediterranean Life".   They are looking for American expats that have relocated to specific European (Mediterranean) areas.  She included a link and said if I was interested I should reach out.  Well, to be honest my first thought was it was a hoax.  No way was I going to click on that link and fall for this prank.  But a few hours later I thought - "Wait, maybe this is real - I should probably investigate a bit". I did NOT click on the link but I did respond and said I would prefer to communicate via email and not on FB messenger.  I also asked how she tracked me down.  What happened next was a few days of email messages and phone calls.

Yes in fact she was who she said she was. I took the time before she sent me the first email to research the best I could.  Sure enough "Mediterranean Life" is a new show for HGTV and she in fact was a casting director - at least that's what her LinkedIn Profile said so I was safe in assuming this was the real deal.    

She sent me more information and I was able to research the new show.  I gave her a little of my background and also sent her the Prologue of my blog - as that really gives a good background on how I ended up in Acquavella, Italy.  Well that got her even more excited.

I was exactly the profile of who she was looking for.  Oh, by the way she said she found me on an Expat website.  Interestingly enough I am not on any Expat websites so how she found me will always remain a mystery - good research I guess.  

So after many emails she said she wanted to talk to me.  We arranged a date/time to talk live. She was from Poland but spoke very good English.  She had been to Italy but never as far south as the region of Campania.  She was now very enamoured with the area.  As we talked on the phone she was very honest that the show really is real estate based - so they want someone who is looking for a home/apartment.  Just like "House Hunters International" the person would be matched with a real estate agent and shown 3 options from which they must now pick.  Therein lies the problem I had.  I have a house already - as you all know.  She asked if I was interested in moving  - of which I promptly sent her a photo of my view and said - "Would you move if this was your view?" - she clearly understood.  BUT she had a dilemma.  She wanted to do a segment on me but she understood I was not interested in moving.  And there was no pressure to not be truthful.  She wanted to talk to the producers and see if she could convince them to do a story outside the main premise of the show.  We both knew it was a long shot but she was willing to try and I had nothing to lose at this stage of the game.  

She called me a few days later with the bad news - no go.  They really wanted to do a real estate show and asked again if I would be willing to look for a new place to live.  I would have to reveal the financial arrangement I have with my cousins for this house - that was a big NO GO.  The arrangement I have with my cousins for this house is between them and me and I promised I would never discuss it with anyone at anytime.  They have their reasons they want it kept quiet and really it is no ones business, so broadcasting it far and wide really was out of the question.  So that was the final nail in the coffin so to speak.  I also wasn't sure how the family would view this - great opportunity or very invasive experience.  The last thing I want to do is cause issues for my cousins who have done nothing  but support me in every way possible.  I can just see American film crews crawling all over of the village - not a pretty sight.

She said she may stay in touch in case she can convince the producers to change their mind as she truly believes my story should be told.   I'm not holding my breath.  But for those of you that watch HGTV look for the new show.  Not sure went it will air.  In the meantime I will continue to consider publishing my story in book form as many have told me to do.  

I'm traveling to Siena next week for the Palio.  A very old (medieval) horse race around the main piazza.  Watch for a blog post with pictures and hopefully some video.  

Fino alla prossima volta!!

Wow That Went Fast!!

mercoledì, 2 maggio

Well here I am 1 week away from my 1st year anniversary of my move to Italy.  Oscar and I left Minnesota on May 8th. I arrived on May 9th and Oscar the next day, May 10th, and so our journey began.  Wow that year went fast.  At times it feels like I just got off the plane and others like I have been here for years.  

So how has my first year been - some friends have asked me questions like:

How does it feel to be a true Italian resident?  Am I still happy I made the move and would I do it again?  What do you miss, if anything, from the states.  When are you going to open that  agriturismo/ bed and breakfast you talked about?

All good questions and for my final blog I thought I would answer them.

I’ll start with the last one - the agriturismo/bed and breakfast.

Yes for many years my vision included me opening up a business here in southern Italy.  However, the longer I am here, that part of the vision is fading for many reasons. Running a business in southern Italy, any business, has its challenges.  The bureaucracy is thick and heavy (worse than the states for sure) and many times the rules/regulations make no sense.   In addition I am not sure I want to work that hard - haha! I want the freedom to travel when I want and don't want to be tied down to a schedule.  And luckily at this point in my life I don’t need to work.  I am very grateful for that fact.  So those of you that have been waiting to visit until I had my business up and running - well you better change your plans.  I know many wonderful places you can stay in the area - some agriturismI (plural), some bed and breakfasts as there is a difference.  Just let me know and I will give you some great options very close to me. 

Italian Residency

I don’t feel any different as an Italian resident than I did as an American - although I sure wish I spoke Italian better.  Don’t get me wrong - I have improved a lot since arriving here last May BUT this language is not an easy one to learn.  I’m not afraid to speak it and usually it is not 100% perfect - but I get my message across.  If I waited or worried about speaking perfectly I would get nowhere so you just dive in and do your best.  People here are so understanding and helpful when I tell them I am just learning.  So with that said I might feel even more like a resident if I spoke better.  Understanding the news, laws, regulations, etc. can be challenging when you don’t speak and understand the language fluently.  But I voted in my first election as a resident.  What I have not done yet is get my Italian driver’s license.  THAT I am leaving for year 2 - I do have the books and mobile app for studying but it will take some concentrated studying.  The other item I’m just learning about and may be a less than positive thing is Italian taxes.  They can claim some of my income (retirement, investment earnings, etc.) as taxable.  This is not an easy thing to work out.  So I now wait for the Italian tax consultant to advise me.  Tax Day is October 31st here in Italy.  I’m sure after that experience I will feel 100% like an Italian resident!!

Am I happy with the move and would I do it again? 

100% yes - the move itself was easy but then you know I’m a planner so all the details were very well organized and my arrival along with my stuff and Oscar was painless  - with just a small amount of stress.
  
I would say I doubt if I would have made the move without having family here.  That is one of the main reasons I wanted to come but having them here has made so many things that much easier as far as transition.  If I had a question they could help me.  In addition getting things done here is a challenge so knowing people is key.  Remember the old saying - it is not what you know but WHO?  Never truer than here is southern Italy. 

 What do I miss?

Oh my lot’s of stupid stuff -  that really is not important - good red meat on occasion, like a good burger or steak.  Certain foods I guess but really I can do without.  The two things in my house that I miss are a furnace and a clothes dryer.  I know I mentioned this in a blog post but the damp, cool winters are no fun without a warm house. BUT with that said you can always find a fix.  Angela, Luigi and I will be finding a bigger “stufa” or stove/heater for the house next winter.  And oh what I would give for a clothes dryer.  My house does not have enough electrical service for a dryer BUT I have recently found a solution - really only necessary in the winter.  There is a new self service laundromat that just opened up.  I stopped the other day to check it out and the owner was there and explained everything to me.  Big washers and dryers so I can even use it this summer for large comforters, etc.  But in winter I could take a few loads of wet clothes and use the dryers.  So again, there is always a solution for the downside - sometimes you just have to search a bit. 

And finally the other thing I do miss are my family and friends.  BUT with technology today I can stay in touch just as easy from here - Video calls are fabulous and using different software I can talk to people for free.  I just can’t call a friend up and say - let’s meet for dinner.  I do miss that spontaneity of friendships. 
I will say my blog has been an easy way to communicate with a large group of people who have an interest in what the heck I am doing.  I am considering keeping the blog going - “A years of Firsts - continued…..”   So stay tuned and thanks for following my adventure this past year. I hope it brought some joy and laughter to your life - it sure did mine!!

Patio and Gazebo Project - Part 3

venerdi, 20 aprile

The day arrived for the installation of the sun shades.  Cousin Antonio arrived first - of course as he is Mr. Punctual!!!   The weather - well - it wasn't raining yet - but it was real foggy.

The installers arrived along with cousin Emilio.  Let the work begin.  It was quite a process but when finished I was very pleased.  Too bad the weather turned foul in the middle of the installation.  Just enough rain to make things uncomfortable but they persisted and did not stop (thank goodness).  There are a few minor finishing touches that will be completed later this week.  

Now the fun part of finding some outdoor furniture (I think I may have found it already),  planting some fun plants and placing them around the terrace and maybe even hang some from the beams.  Will also decide where I can hang some little fairy lights.  

I am also excited to hang my bronze Solari Windbells.  I brought these from the U.S. and they come from Cosanti in Arizona.  However, there is a great tie to Italy.  Here is a brief excerpt from the Cosanti website.  Paolo Solari (mentioned below) was born in Turin, Italy and is very well known here in Italy.    

The Cosanti Story

"Cosanti is a designated Arizona historic site, designed by world-renowned architectural innovator Paolo Soleri, featuring terraced landscaping with experimental earth-formed concrete structures. Hear the tones of bronze and ceramic wind-bells strikingly suspended amidst courtyards and visitor paths. View the dramatic bronze casting process weekday mornings here at Cosanti’s foundry.

Cosanti, located in Paradise Valley, AZ, is where world-renowned architectural innovator, Paolo Soleri established the Cosanti Foundation. Since 1956, Cosanti has been the headquarters for this nonprofit educational organization dedicated to architectural research. Cosanti is where Paolo Soleri also established his diverse line of bronze and ceramic Soleri Windbells which are famous around the world. Cosanti is the headquarters, foundry, studio, & gallery for Paolo Soleri Bronze & Ceramic Windbells & Sculptures."  

So hanging the bells is very important!

The BBQ area still needs to be finished as well.  Mariano, the tile worker will return to create a masterpiece area for the grill area.  

For now enjoy the pictures.  Once it is totally finished I will post more pictures.  

The materials and men have arrived

Unpacking the tracks - I am pleased with the color!

These 4 men worked all day - a great team!

Hanging the shades on the tracks

One side is up but much more to do

Installing the pull cords

The rain hasn't started yet

The second side is up

Good view of the track

Working on the pull cord for the second side

Now for the area over the BBQ
This is a fixed cover.  Now the rain has started.

Hurrying to finish before it gets too wet and sloppy

This is great covered area for the grill (yet to be purchased)

And we are done!!!

Now bring on the good weather!!

Patio and Gazebo Project - Part 2

giovedi, 12 aprile

Well progress continues on the outside project.  Antonio and I had decided on the design and now we just needed to communicate with the officials from the Comune di Casal Velino and then we could start - or so I thought.  I knew this was going too smoothly.  

So Luigi tells me "his friend" from the Comune would come on a Monday to review our project.  Prior to that Antonio had delivered all the wood for the gazebo so we could start quickly.

All the material is now on site!

Monday comes and everyone arrives pretty much on schedule.  A discussion ensues - of which I do not understand one thing that is being said.  They are speaking rapidly and I believe in dialect.  The one thing I could tell however was it was not going according to plan and no one was smiling - not a good sign.  30 minutes later the "inspector" leaves.  Luigi and Antonio and I go inside to talk.  Basically the inspector expected blue prints of some fashion and said we must go through the "normal" approval process - oh by the way - that takes 6 months!!  I about died.  But then they proceed to tell me Antonio will start on Friday.  I was totally confused until they told me - the fine for building without permission is CHEAPER than the cost of paying for the normal approval permits.  WHAT???  Yes you read that right.  There is alot of illegal construction in southern Italy - now I know why.  Using basic reasoning doesn't seem to work here - you would think you could stimulate the local economy by making approvals for small projects easier to obtain right?  Amazing but also quite sad as the bureaucracy is massive and obstructive.  So........we will proceed without the appropriate approvals.  I did also learn that approvals for interior projects are not required.  Thank goodness as the kitchen renovation is next on the list.  

So Antonio and Giulio arrive as expected on Friday to build the gazebo.  It takes one day with a few minor touchups on Saturday.  

The next step is the canvas cover for shade.  This becomes a bigger project than the wood structure as everyone has different ideas of what can be done.  Oh my.  We call on my second cousin Emilio (first cousin to Antonio).  He owns a drapery/reupholstery business.  He comes out the following week and for 30 minutes he and Antonio heatedly discuss what can and can not be done based on the way the structure is built.  All I want are fabric shades that can be opened and closed.  I showed them pictures from the internet.  Well at the end of that discussion it was decided the "technica" from the manufacturer should come out and look at the structure to help decide.  Now everyone knows I want this done by May and they continue to tell me - no problem it will be done.  

Well to make a long story a bit shorter - a few meetings later I have decided on the shade coverings - it will be a bit more complex than originally planned due to the wind on the hill and the structure of the gazebo.  It will have tracks and be in two sections.  The area over the BBQ will be fixed canvas.  They are now on order and I hope to have them installed soon.  So stay tuned for Part 3 of this adventure.  

Oh and send cash in case Luigi gets arrested (just kidding).  The home owner is responsible so I guess I am off the hook.  

Stay tuned.......

Patio and Gazebo Project - Part 1

lunedi, marzo 12

This spring and summer I have plans to make more progress on my house project list.  I am now beginning my patio and pergola project.  To the side of my front porch is a patio where I put my green iron table and chairs I brought from Minnesota.  I decided I wanted to build a pergola or gazebo as they call them here, over the table.  The more I researched I also decided I wanted to tile the patio as now it was just ugly concrete with weeds growing in the cracks.  Here are some before pictures.  Note the palm behind the table for later.  Also note the view of the sea in the other pictures - should remove any doubt why I want to improve this outdoor space.  You can't really get a feel for the size but it is quite a large area.  

So a few weeks ago the tile work started.  The worker (Mariano) is the son-in-law of my cousin Nicola.  Mariano is a stone mason/tile worker by trade.  He and his brothers are from Romania.  They do amazing work - very detailed, clean and efficient - totally un-Italian!  HAHA!  This part of the project is so not Italian - as he came over on a Monday to review the job, came back on Tuesday to review again and give me the price, then started the work on Thursday, continued on Friday and finished the following week (only due to a rain delay of about a week.  In total it was a 4-5 day project.   I can't say enough about them.  But as the project started I once again thought about "Under the Tuscan Sun" when she hired the Polish contractors.  Well here they are Romanian - are really good looking and very talented.  So really not the same - but the vision was fun!

The one part of the project that WAS Italian was the contracting/price negotiation.  There were no contracts involved, no haggling over price.  He told me the price, I agreed. No paperwork, no contracts, no attorneys, no lien waivers, nothing!!!!  Now I'm not sure if that was because I am "family" but in all my other dealings there have been no contracts, paperwork, etc.  So I believe that is the Italian way, at least in the south.  I like it!

Here are pictures of the process:

The palm tree must be removed and
hopefully relocated

The new home for the palm in my garden
The good news is it is surviving in its new place

Prep for the concrete base

The new concrete base

Tile work begins
Tile edging is first

Even covered the former concrete steps
Nice Look

The main tile work in progress

The finished product

Can't wait to add potted plants
and maybe some fun outdoor furniture

This dirt area will be covered and become
an area for my BBQ grill

I have now starting working with my cousin Antonio, il falegname, (the carpenter) to design my pergola/gazebo.   We have agreed on the design and now waiting for the approval from the Comune.  Anticipated completion is early May. Stay tuned for Part 2 of the project.