Celebrating Continues.......

giovedi, 28 dicembre

I know I said I was not going to post till after the holidays - well there is so much going on I thought I had better break it down into a few posts.  The past 4-5 days have been jam packed with fun southern Italian activities to celebrate Christmas.  

Saturday night I had dinner with Antonio and Anna at a great agriturismo up in the mountains- everything is "up in the mountains" - Great food and company - and this place also had live music and dancing.  But before making our trek up the mountain they took me to see a presepe in Ascea.  Now remember presepe's are very important in southern Italy.  They consist of the nativity AND a complete village surrounding the manger.  Presepes can range in size from small table top presepes to complete rooms.  I would venture to say the presepe is more important here than the Christmas tree.  I have two nativities that you saw in the prior post - but I will now start to make a presepe as well using my family nativity as the base.  I will need to add to it.  I took some photos and video of the presepe we saw in Ascea.  Take a look and you will see how detailed these can get.  They are the equivalent of some of the Christmas villages that are done in the U.S.  This presepe had moving parts, live plants and lots of lights and took 2 months to create. The pictures do not due it justice but I hope you get the idea of what a presepe truly is.  

I found a great article on the web about Naples and presepes.  Take a minute and read this for a better understanding of the importance of the presepe.  

The Presepe Tradition.  (click on the link)

Watch the video and look for all the moving parts. I tried to capture them all. 

https://youtu.be/YEUo50cpvt8

Christmas Eve day (Sunday) started with an aperitivo at noon with Angela, Luigi and Stefano at the bar outside the Parafarmacia.  As you can see the weather was perfect and lots of sunshine!!  A relaxing tradition (not just for Christmas) that I like!

Christmas Eve in Acquavella brings Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) to the village to greet the children and bring them a present.  This was so fun.  Santa comes into town on a sleigh being pulled by a pick up truck that is decorated.  His sleigh is full of presents.  Babbo Natale then sits on his throne and each child is called up to receive their gift.   The parents purchase and wrap a gift ahead of time and get it to the organizing team.  Pretty neat idea - right?  Then on Christmas morning the children receive gifts from their family but nothing from Santa as they already received his gift the night before.  Watch the video below - there is even a small band escorting Babbo Natale.  

https://youtu.be/R0woQIdzrbk

Babbo Natale's Throne

Children receive a gift from Babbo Natale 
This child is the son of a cousin
6th Generation Gentile!

After Babbo Natale there is the traditional Christmas Eve meal.  The meal is known as The Vigil (La Vigilia). This meal commemorates the wait, the Vigilia di Natale, for the midnight birth of the baby Jesus.  The meal consists of fish as meat is not eaten until Christmas day.  Angela did a great job and only used Tuna for our meal as she knows I am not a big fish fan.  But she had pasta with Tuna, Tuna roll, many different salads and vegetables, bread and of course Christmas sweets and Prosecco.  Just when you want to lay down and take a nap it is off to the church for the Christmas Eve Mass.  As I mentioned I am not catholic but the service is always beautiful and celebrates the birth of Jesus.  I don't understand everything but the basic message is clear!  The church has a new Presepe this year.  I took a picture before the service so of course Jesus in not in his crib.

Christmas morning was very relaxing for Oscar and me.  We would then go to Angela's for dinner. I swear I was still full from the Christmas Eve feast.  The Christmas Day Feast consisted of a beautiful antipasto plate for each of us with melon, prosciutto, salami, grilled eggplant, cheeses and olives.  Then we had a fabulous Lasagna.  THEN - again I am about to die here - but she brings on a beautiful beef roast that was cooked for 4 hours in wine the day before. It is called Brasato!!  It is served with mushrooms and sides of wonderful vegetables.   Dessert was Panettone, chocolates and of course Prosecco.   Everything was fabulous!  The rest of the day and evening was spent relaxing at home as the next night we would go with cousin Antonio to the Live Presepe (Live Nativity) in Monteforte Cilento. 

The village of Monteforte Cilento is about a 90 minute drive "up in the mountains".  Thank goodness we had good weather.  The roads are narrow, winding and dark and it is not uncommon to see different critters along the way (i.e. fox and wild boar).  The whole village converts back to the time of Jesus' birth.  You walk through the village and visit different stops along the way and see people performing tasks from that time period - making bread, making home made cheese, and more.  The walkways all lead you to the Nativity - complete with animals.  Instead of a bunch of still photos I decided to try my hand at creating a little movie - with stills and videos combined.  I hope you like it - I even added music to it.  

https://youtu.be/7zzbuuD3g8k

I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas.  The celebrations continue here so watch for another update after the new year.  

Buone Feste!!!

Christmas Preparations

venerdi, 22 dicembre

Christmas is just a few days away.  I thought I would take a few minutes and tell you about what happens before Christmas in southern Italy.  I will post again after the holiday season, which ends here on January 6th - the Epiphany.  

I quickly realized that Christmas in Italy (or the time before Christmas I should say) is not in your face - so to speak and definitely not like the U.S.  (in my opinion)  I noticed after Thanksgiving that stores were decorated but as each day passed I noticed a marked difference than in the states. I didn't see villages decorating their streets early in December and I didn't hear conversations about "oh my I have so much shopping to do".  I did run into 3 musical Santa's in the village one day.  Check out the video.  They were so fun and came from Salerno to play - just because!!!!  I asked them if I could video them for my friends in the U.S. So this is just for YOU!

https://youtu.be/llLh7GYKhYw


I do know holiday baking is done and here in the south there are two main pastries that are made for Christmas and one very special pastry only made in Acquavella.    Pastucelle and Struffoli are very southern.   I must admit I am not a fan of Struffoli.  The pastry of Acquavella is "Pasta di Mandorle con glassa".  These are yummy and just the right size - one bite size!!

Pasta di mandorle con glassa

 

This year our Village will not host any major event.  In the past we have had a Live Nativity (Precepe) as well as Santa's House (Babbo Natale).  These events typically bring people from far and wide.  But this year it will be quieter.  So the decorations in the village are much smaller but still beautiful......well all but the tree near the church.  I just may have to offer my help next year.  This is pretty sad.   Interesting fact the Christmas lights were just put up 2 days ago.  Yes, one week before Christmas. I assume they will remain up until January 6th.  

Via Napoli, the Main Street in Acquavella,
decorated for Christmas

I'm sorry but this is just so wrong.
My new mission for next year is to make this
tree shine!!

I will say that the Italians are all about food for the holidays - no surprise there.  When you grocery shop the stores are filled with different types of food for Christmas.  These past few days as I shopped, the amount of fish that was displayed was intense - for Christmas Eve dinners.  In addition there are mountains of the boxed cakes - panettone, pandoro and sparkling wine.  I am amazed at how they fly out of the door.  People have grocery carts filled with them.  Everyone gives them as gifts.  

Stacks of different type of chocolate
candies and sweets

Mountains of Panettone and other Christmas breads

..... and don't forget the bubbly!!

My personal preparation consisted of decorating the inside and outside of my house.  I bought battery operated lights for the outside.  And my tree is LIVE - meaning I can plant it outside after the holidays.  I did not see one place where you could buy a fresh cut Christmas tree.  I don't think they exist here in the south.  If people have a tree it usually is artificial.  The precepe (nativity) is much more important.  So I of course put out my nativity from my childhood.  My sisters will remember it well.  And believe it or not it was made in Italy.   And then of course Oscar has his nativity as well.  So we are ready.  

Oscar's dog nativity

....the stockings were hung by the chimney with care.......

The front of the house and you can see the lights
from the Main Street in the village

I also decorated the fence around the house
All the lights are battery operated

Small Christmas markets have popped up in some of the villages the past few days.  Angela and I attended one in Velina last night.  Very small but little houses of food, beverages and of course hand made crafts.   Marina di Casal Velino will have one after Christmas.  So I see a theme that the weeks before Christmas are not frantic but very calm and no one wishes you Merry Christmas, etc. until a few days before the holiday.  They don't rush things here.  

Christmas Eve there will be a midnight mass, of course, in the little church here in Acquavella.  I may attend -   OK, yes I know I am not catholic but I don't think God minds.  I remember going with my girlfriend Susanne and her family on Christmas Eve to their catholic church service.  It will be standing room only for this service.  Earlier in the evening Santa will arrive in the village square to greet all the children.  There will be music, games and food of course.

I will celebrate Christmas Day with Angela, Luigi and Stefano.  The girls will not make it home for Christmas but will most likely come in January for a visit.  After Christmas I will travel to Salerno for the "Salerno Luci d'artists".  This is an amazing display of "artistic" Christmas lights.  Every year they are different displays by artists and each street will have a theme.  The display starts in November and runs into late January to accommodate all the tourists that want to see it.  In addition I will go to a Live Precepe in a small village up in the mountains, Monteforte Cilento. I have been there one time before (in pouring down rain) so hoping for clear skies so I can get some great pictures  to share and maybe a video or two.  These Live Precepes are amazing. And they never start till after Christmas - How can you have a nativity before Christ was born? They do it right here.

So with that I will close.  Many blessings to you all this Christmas. I look forward to giving you a great update after the New Year!  

Baby It's Cold Inside

domenica, 3 dicembre,

December has arrived and with it cold (it's all relative I know) and wetter weather.  And with that I am learning how to cope with it - and the fact that my house is not heated except with the fireplace.  Sometimes it is warmer outside than inside my house.  That comes when your house is made of stone/brick/concrete - anything that does not retain heat.   A welcome fact in the heat of the summer but not so good in the winter.  

The cooler weather actually arrived last month.  So with each passing day I just added layers of clothes when I dressed in the morning. The temperatures now are in the 50's during the day but with the rain it is a damp and cold feeling.  If the sun is out it is beautiful and the late morning and early afternoon hours are heaven.  Some days I just sit outside and soak it up.  Many Friday mornings I meet friends at one of my favorite bars for coffee and we sit outside enjoying the sunshine.  Today, in between the rain, Angela, Luigi and I sat outside for an aperitivo at the bar next to the Parafarmacia in Bivio Acquavella.  The sun shown for our brief hour get together.  

Earlier in November I realized I may need to buy a small space heater.  I could use it during the day in my office, the kitchen or the bathroom.  In mentioning it to Angela she told me there was a spare heater in the upstairs house that no one was using. I was free to use it.  So I started using that - mostly in the bathroom in the morning and in the evening or when taking a shower.  Also fires in the evening became the norm.

A week ago I realized the small heater would not do the trick all winter.  Building a fire during the day was inconvenient as if I needed to run out I did not want to leave the fire burning.  So the next step was a bigger heater of some sort.  I started to research them and also talk to Luigi.  I am glad I did as he said the electrical service to the house probably would not handle the draw from an electric heater large enough to warm the main room.  But maybe a heater with gas would do the trick?  These heaters are very common here in southern Italy.   So Luigi helped me buy one along with a first tank of gas.  We took it home and Luigi put it all together for me. These are just like the heaters used for outside dining - only on a smaller scale and its on wheels so I can move it around.  So now I have options!!!  I love options.  But more important Oscar and I can stay warm in our house.  

Oscar very happy and toasty warm!

And he loves our new space heater!

Winter is just starting. We don't get snow in southern Italy - at least on the ground we don't. Today while having our aperitivo we looked up and in the mountains there was snow.  I must say it was pretty but I say that knowing there is a small probability of any of it landing on the ground at the lower elevations - (she says with her fingers crossed)!   I know it doesn't happen often as there are many winter gardens planted.  Winter vegetables are many different types of broccoli, cauliflower, and the start of the artichoke season.  I can't wait to learn some new recipes for artichokes (carciofi) from Angela.  

Snow capped mountains surrounding southern Italy

There are not too many signs of Christmas yet.  The stores of course are decorated but not much else.  The start of the Christmas season will start to ramp up beginning this Friday, December 8th for the "Feast of the Immaculate Conception". It is a National Holiday. I will be flying off to Germany for a fun weekend visit with my cousin Doria and her family.  I am excited to go to the famous German Christmas markets.  When I return I will be in the spirit and will decorate my house - inside and out.  Looking forward to telling you all about the wonders of Christmas, here in southern Italy.  

My First Thanksgiving

venerdi, 24 novembre

Yesterday I celebrated my first Thanksgiving in Italy.  I decided to celebrate with a traditional American Thanksgiving and invite a few cousins to join me.  I knew it would take some planning so I began the preparations well over a month ago. I have to give a shout out to my dear childhood friend, JoAnn Blitz Pisani.  She is a fabulous cook.  She helped me plan the menu, figure out how to cook it all in my very small kitchen and give morale support all along the way.  Numerous video calls were made between us. She is a lifesaver!!  

I had to plan the menu ensuring I could find all the necessary ingredients.  Thank goodness I started early as the menu changed a few times as I would look for specific ingredients - and would find out they did not exist in southern Italy.  For example fresh cranberries are not available.  Late in the game I did find dried cranberries but more on that later.  Also poultry seasoning is non-existent.  So I googled it and discovered your could make your own by combining various spices - who knew?  Also sweet potatoes are not real prevalent.  Cousin Angela was pretty sure a friend who has a farm would have them and they would be organic.  OK - works for me.  

I knew I wanted Turkey and with the help of Angela we went to the local butcher shop and ordered the turkey.  It would be a fresh turkey.  He said it would most likely be 5 kilo grams - which equals about 12 pounds.  I asked for a smaller one if possible but he could not guarantee it.  Oh well there might be lots of leftovers - time would tell.  I could pick it up on Wednesday the 22nd.  Perfect!

So my menu would be as follows:

Aperitivo (before dinner drink and snack - meaning 1 appetizer).  I chose to serve Aperol Spritzes and prosciutto wrapped bread sticks.  Easy to fix and not too filling.  I also had some peanuts to snack on.

The main meal would consist of:
Turkey, stuffing, gravy, mashed sweet potatoes, roasted Brussel sprouts, fig compote (I wanted to serve cranberry relish but no can do) and dinner rolls.  For dessert I would buy a beautiful ricotta and pear torte from the local pastry shop.  Pumpkin pies (or any other pie for that matter) don't exist here either.  And even if I wanted to try and make one from scratch (which was a no go right from the start) you can't find the pumpkin filling.  So a ricotta torte it would be.

When I discovered fresh cranberries were not available JoAnn recommended a Fig Compote. That would be perfect.  My neighbor had just given me a package of dried figs from this season's harvest.  So I picked out a pretty easy Fig Compote recipe on line (thank you Martha Stewart) and was able to find all the necessary ingredients.  Earlier this week while doing one of many shopping trips for the ingredients I discovered there were dried cranberries in the store.  I thought, too bad I couldn't find fresh.  Back on line later in the day I found a different Fig compote recipe - that called for fresh/frozen cranberries.  I decided to get brave and changed my recipe so I would add the dried cranberries to the Fig Compote.  My tutor JoAnn agreed I could use dried and maybe also add some nuts to the mixture.   I must say the end result was fabulous.  I will keep this recipe for future use.

So my menu is planned and my shopping is done.  It took quite a few trips to the stores - that is multiple.  As one grocery store would only have certain items while the other grocery store would have others.  

With JoAnn's encouragement she convinces me the only way this would work is if I make all the sides ahead of time.  My stove/oven is small and there is no way I can do everything that day.  So the Fig Compote would be first to be made on Tuesday night.   I was pleasantly surprised that it worked out as well as it did.   One down!

Balsamic Cranberry-Fig Compote

Wednesday would be the big push to make the other sides, set my table and get the house prepared.  I would also pick up my turkey and find out how big it was.  Based on the weight I could then determine how early I would need to get up to get the bird stuffed and in the oven.

I did my last minute running on Wednesday morning.  I went to the bakery, the pastry shop and of course the butcher.   Arriving at the butcher he pulled the fresh bird from his cooler - it looked awful big - and big it was - 5.9 kilo grams or 13 pounds.  Yikes - oh well leftovers for all. It was so fun watching him try and wrap this bird as he does other meat products.  You could tell this was new for him and he doesn't normally sell things this large.  He tried wrapping it with his butcher paper and when that didn't work he changed direction.  He got two large plastic bags - put the bird in one bag and put the butcher paper around the bird inside the bag - then pulled the other bag over the other end.  Now in the U.S. 13 pounds is not considered a big turkey - here in southern Italy - this is HUGE!  I paid for the bird (one thing that is not cheap here).  This bird was 44 euros ($52.36) or $4.02 per pound.   It was well worth the price.  So fun too that the butcher carried the bird to my car for me.  He thought it was too heavy for me.  I love service!!!! 

The bird wrapped from the butcher!

The cooking could now commence.  The Brussel sprouts were no issue - other than the one store that sells them was out when I went to buy them.  I asked the produce worker and he said he had them and would bring them out.  In Italy that means on his time - not mine.  So for the next 45 minutes I finished my shopping and then wandered around the store waiting for him to go to the back room and bring them out.   Only in Italy!  Luckily they did have them but I was starting to think - ok green beans can always work - Yuck!  Oh don't get me wrong - I like green beans but they are common in Italy. I wanted something different.  

So with the brussel sprouts made it is now time to make the mashed sweet potatoes.  I mentioned above the organic farm.  Take a peek at these potatoes.  I have a large orange next to them so you can see the size.  They were huge.  They also were not exactly what I was expecting and then when I started to peel and cut them I really realized they were NOT what I expected at all.  They were not like our sweet potatoes.  A bit too late to do anything now. I would just have to hope they would work out.  They did but I must say they were rather mild.  I do like our sweet potatoes better - more flavor.

Fresh organic "Italian" sweet potatoes

Looks a lot like our normal potatoes
Consistency a bit different than both our white and sweet potatoes
Flavor similar to our sweet potatoes but less intense

Stuffing was next and thankfully the only issue there is WOW the recipe made a lot.  This would be a challenge on Thanksgiving morning.  But for now the food is made, table set, house cleaned.  Bring on Thanksgiving Day!!

Now let me tell you a secret.  I think I have only cooked a Thanksgiving dinner, complete with Turkey, one time in my life.  I believe I was living in Cleveland at the time.  I have always been invited to friends for Thanksgiving and I have always gratefully accepted their invitations.  So there was a bit of trepidation on my part!  Haha!  But my tutor JoAnn had instilled lots of confidence in me.  Thank goodness!!  And in the end if it all failed we could just go out for pizza!!

I arose early but unfortunately no Macy's parade to watch while I cooked.  The 7 hour time difference was no fun today!  I had determined my timeline the night before - turkey must be in the oven before 10 a.m.  But the turkey almost did not fit in the oven.  There was no room to spare.  In fact the turkey leg was touching the side of the oven and I had to wrap it in foil as it was starting to burn just a few minutes into the cooking time.  OMG!!!   The other issue is I realized I had way too much stuffing for the bird.  I would now have to cook some of it in the oven which meant a change in how I would reheat the potatoes and Brussel sprouts. It all worked out but still a bit amazed that it did.   

Turkey stuffed and ready for the oven.
Almost too big for my roasting pan

It just barely fits!!!

Turkey in the oven I was on schedule and made last minute preps for heating up the sides and prepping the aperativo.  

My guests arrived at 1:00.  I anticipated eating around 2:00.  I was pretty darn close to that and would have been on time but when I was ready to serve the food I realized Luigi was no longer here.   "Dov'e Luigi?" I ask.  Apparently Angela and Luigi bought a bottle of Prosecco to have with dessert but Luigi forgot it in the refrigerator at home.  While I was cooking he left the house and went down the mountain to their house to get it.  HaHa!  Ok stall for a bit - no problem I could do that.  He returned with Prosecco in hand and I was ready to serve the meal.  I gave a little speech in Italian.  I told them today was a very special day - a day in which we give thanks for our blessings.  I told them there were 5 blessings sitting around the table with me and I was so grateful and thankful for their support and help during my first 6 months in Italy.   With that it was "mangiamo"!!! The food turned out great - a bit to my surprise.  They all had seconds and believe it or not there was not much turkey left!!!  I guess they liked it!!  

So my first Thanksgiving is a memory now and a beautiful one at that.  I told them they are invited each year as I celebrate an important American holiday and tradition.   They all agreed they would return.  

My guests chatting while I was cooking in the kitchen

Yummy looking turkey right out of the oven

My guests anxiously awaiting to eat

I learned I do not know how to carve a turkey....
no matter how many instructions you read on line. haha!

Luigi loved that turkey!

The infamous Prosecco
and of course Antonio is the first one to taste it

Happy Thanksgiving - 2017!

Bring on Christmas!!

My 6 Month Update!

mercoledi, 8 novembre

Today marks the end of the first 6 months in Italy.  Wow - where did that time go.  But when I think back on everything I have accomplished and experienced it does seem like I have been here longer.

My house is coming together - although much more to do.  My recent addition of a full wall armadio (wardrobe) is really making a difference as I am finally getting things out of plastic tubs and corners of every room.  To those following me on Facebook, apologies for some duplication here.  This unit was built by hand and installed by my cousin Antonio and his nephew Giulio,  (the son of my cousin Emilio).  The craftsmanship is fabulous.   Check out the pictures of the finished product and the wonderful craftsmen.

Cousin Antonio and Giulio - the craftsmen

My "furnace" is ready and I finally found a screen.  With the cooler weather I had to fire it up for the first time.  It keeps the main living/dining room nice and warm.  I will use a space heater for the bathroom.

This really keeps me warm on chilly days

I have a list of other projects that will most likely take me a few years to finish.  But isn't that what everyone has.  My next project after the holiday season will be a pergola (or gazebo as they call them here) outside and some landscaping work on the garden.  I'm hoping that will cut down on the dust/dirt that seems to get into every crack and crevice of the house.   I do love this house and see no reason to really do anything but to stay here and enjoy the view!!

I have met some wonderful friends outside of family - which I know is important.  In addition I am staying active not only by working out at the fitness center but now I am taking yoga and learning how to play tennis.  I am also planning a few golf get aways with friends.  The "good" golf courses are a few hours away at least.  But so blessed to have found people that enjoy participative sports!

The language is coming along. My cousins say I am speaking much better but I have such a long way to go.  I make small improvements daily yet I have little patience for "small improvements". I want to wake up one day and be fluent - haha- that ain't happenin' - darn!!!  Sometimes I amaze myself and other days I just want to bang my head against a brick wall as I can't seem to say anything correct.  At night my brain "flat lines" as I say.  It is so tired after talking or trying to talk Italian all day.  It just goes numb.  That is usually when I find a movie in English on TV or put one in my DVD player from my great romance comedy collection.   Oh and yes my DVDs work here BUT I had to buy what is called a non-region DVD player.  It supports DVDs from all regions of the world.  And I also found a small CD player so I can play all my music. It is not the great quality of my stereo system I left behind but it will work for a year or two until I decide if I want to invest in something bigger/better quality.  

Oscar has finally turned the corner after 6 months. It was a rough start for my buddy.  The summer heat and humidity was brutal for him.  And he has put on some weight - not a good thing.  We found a new vet - an hour away.  But the clinic is very large and has everything we might need.  I really like the new vet.  Oscar has a few problems we are addressing and unfortunately for him he is on a diet. I must get the weight off him for his health.  We've done it before when he first came to me at 4 years old - we can do it again!!  He has made friends with many of the dogs in Acquavella.  Lulu (a male dog that lives next door) is his best buddy. My house is completely fenced in so I can let Oscar run off lead and Lulu somehow gets inside our fence - and comes to play with Oscar. I am trying to get a video of them - it is so cute.  But here is a still of them when we are on a walk.

Lulu and Oscar - best buddies

Guess who claimed the one and only chair in the house

I have had some Minnesota friends visit already - and I think they have all recovered from culture shock!!  It has allowed me to explore a bit more and learn about all the things to do and see in southern Italy.  There is still so much more to uncover.  I also took a trip up to Tuscany with my cousin.  That will most likely become at least an annual trip.  Looking forward to next July and going to the Palio di Siena (the horse race around the Piazza del Campo).  From there I may jump over to the Umbria Jazz Fest - one of the best Jazz festivals in the world - held in July.  I'm liking this thing called retirement!!

A beautiful view just 10 minutes into a long trail called "Sentiero degli Innamorati"
in Ascea. The total time to hike the entire trail is about 2 hours and it goes much higher.
On my list of things to do - complete the hike

So with that I will close my update.  I'm getting ready for Thanksgiving and will post about that later.  I'm inviting a few cousins to celebrate the holiday with me.  Then it will be Christmas - oh my I can't wait for that.  Christmas in Italy is really something special. 

Hope you are all enjoying my Year of Firsts!!