It's not always Paradise

domenica, dicembre 9

Many of you, through emails or Facebook comments, comment about the wonderful life I am living.  And I have to agree with you - it is fabulous.  But it is not without its' trials and tribulations.  So in the spirit of Christmas giving, this blog will make you feel glad about where you live and you will be happy you don't live in southern Italy.  😜

Since August I have been working on a project to remove my fireplace and replace it with a new cast iron wood burning stove.  This project in itself deserves a full blog post but I'll save that for another day.  Needless to say the project is still not complete.  A decision was made, which I agreed to, to add an additional part to the stove after it was completely installed.  So a week ago last Friday, my cousin Antonio, a friend of his and my cousin Angela and I set out to buy this part.  The men believe it should be no problem.  Well, three hours later and after having driven to every hardware store and construction supply store within a 20 km radius we come back empty handed.  (Now why we just didn't pick up the phone and call these stores is beyond me).  Well the next day I find the part on Amazon/Italy (I say Italy as there is a BIG difference between Amazon.com and Amazon.it.). I order the part and it says it will arrive on Thursday.

Earlier this past week I get the updated shipping message from Amazon telling me the 
package will now arrive on Wednesday and it will be shipped by SDA.  My happy face 😀 (for coming a day early) now turns into a sad face 😟 because it is coming via SDA.  Side story here - a week ago I was expecting another shipment from SDA.  On the expected day I do get a call from the driver - he is in Acquavella but will not deliver the package to my house.  He is at the bar and will leave the package there.  WHAT??????  I live 30 seconds up the hill from the bar - but he will not drive up and bring me my package.  So that explains the sad face.

Well I am resigned to the fact that SDA is delivering and Wednesday I check both the Amazon website and SDA's website and the package is on the truck for delivery before 8 p.m Wednesday night.  Yippee!!!  But wait - at 10 a.m. the websites are both updated to say - oops - external problem the package will not come today - but tomorrow.  OK I guess I can't get too upset as Thursday was the original date for delivery. 

Thursday morning - I again check both websites and yes it is back on the truck for delivery.  At 10 a.m. I check again and still good.  But wait - at 11 a.m. the websites are both updated again to say - oops - external problem again - now the package will be delivered in the next 5 days.  Another WHAT????  Can you see the smoke coming out of my ears?????

Now remember in southern Italy you MUST be home to accept the package - no leaving at the front door/gate/wherever.  So on Friday morning I decided to wash floors - I had to do something to stay busy while I was waiting again for the package as YES - the package was once again on the truck for delivery.  I check at 9 a.m. - still good, 10 a.m. still good, 11 a.m. still good (by now I am feeling very confident that today is THE day.). At noon I check the websites again and guess what - The package has been delivered!!!  But where????  It sure wasn't delivered to me.  Someone with the last name of Volpe signed for the package.  Oh brother, maybe again he delivered it to the bar.  

As I am walking down to the bar to retrieve the package I also send cousin Angela a txt asking if she knows the last name of the gal that works in the bar - assuming for sure it will be Volpe.  She doesn't respond right away but as I reach the bottom of the 132 steps that take me to the main street in the village I get a txt back.  

Angela tells me my package has been delivered to the shoe store next to the Parafarmacia in Bivio Acquavella (a totally different village than mine).  Yes that's correct. The explanation goes like this.......

SDA wanted to deliver it to the Parafarmacia because apparently the driver knew I was family of the pharmacist (Luigi) who owned the Parafarmacia.  But the Parafarmacia was closed that day as the worker was sick - so SDA delivered the package next door to the shoe store.  I kid you not - you can't make this stuff up.  

Well I get my package  - finally.  But you won't believe this - the part is not correct.  Oh it is the right part - the one I ordered -  but Amazon's description on the website was incorrect.  The measurements were wrong on the website so the part will not work.  

Oh one point I didn't explain - SDA is the Italian post office's package delivery service - enough said.

So I continue to hear from people that they miss my blogs - as I have not posted as frequently since May.  For 2019 I have decided to post monthly.  I will give you an update of my life each month.  It will be a year in the life of KK.  Hope you enjoy it.  

As I close out 2018 may you and your family and friends have a blessed Christmas and a Happy New Year!!

Buon Natale e Felice Anno Nuovo!

History, Tradition, Heritage and Legacies

sabato, novembre 10

In my last blog I mentioned how southern Italians truly embrace tradition. In addition to embracing tradition they always take time to remember those who have gone before, honouring history, Italian heritage and people's legacies. Whether it’s in the war memorial in the center of the town of Acquavella or in the cemetery. November 2nd was a day for just that. It was All Souls' Day, known as "Giorno dei Morti" (day of the dead), and commemorates loved ones who have departed. November 1st is All Saints Day and it is a National holiday in Italy.  Most businesses are closed and there are many masses in the churches.   All Soul's Day appeared to be the more important of the two - as far as demonstrative acts.  On November 2nd many Italians will take flowers to the cemetery for all of their family and friends. Many will use both days as they may need to visit multiple cemeteries. 

I participated this year with my cousin Angela. We purchased our flowers the day before and the following morning, despite the rain, we went to the cemetery to pay our respects. We left flowers at many of the families' grave sites. I specifically wanted to remember my grandfather‘s siblings, his two brothers and his sister. In addition we left flowers at many other cousin's graves.  The cemetery was full of people  - everyone doing the same thing and it was really a heartwarming and peaceful scene. The flower of choice for this event is usually the mum. People will take full mum plants and leave them on the walkway near the grave site or will take cut mums and place them in the vases that are part of the headstone. I’ve included quite a few pictures of our family members. 

Emilio Gentile, bother to my grandfather

Delfina, sister to my grandfather

Antonio, brother to my grandfather

Santina Gentile, first cousin to my mother

Palmina Gentile, first cousin to my mother

Flowers I left for a cousins parents

On November 4th the village had a ceremony remembering those who died in all wars as it was Italian Armed Services day - equal to our Veterans Day.  But it also commemorates Italy's end to WWI - Austrian-Hungarian forces agreed to a cease fire, and so that ended the war on the Italian front.  I attended this ceremony as well.  There was a small marching band and speeches from the Priest and local dignitaries.  Here are some pictures and a quick video.

Poster announcing the ceremony

The flags are ready for the ceremony.
The Italian flag is not flying yet (far left)
There are 7 other flags of the allies (note the U.S. flag on the left)
Then there is the flag of the European Union (Blue)

During the ceremony this wreath was
presented by the dignitaries

Here is a short video of the band playing
the Italian National Anthem and the flag being raised
Interesting that no one sings, but they do clap at the end.

https://youtu.be/RFObDxYHB00

And finally I thought I would tell you about my first funeral that I attended.  It’s not a happy subject to blog about but I found it very interesting because it was so different from the American funerals. And since I’m talking about tradition and legacies I thought it might be interesting to tell you a little bit about this Italian ritual.

Unfortunately earlier this year, a first cousin of my mother passed away.  She was 85 years old. She passed the day that I had family arriving from the states so it was kind of a hectic start to their vacation but it did allow them to see quite a few family members.

99% of the Italians in southern Italy are catholic (I would say 100% but I'm in that 1%).  So the funeral, as many religious ceremonies, follows the religious beliefs.  But what is different and unique here in southern Italy is after death they do not embalm the body.  Very little cremation occurs.  Based on that the funeral will most always occur within 24 hours of the passing.  The church in the village will toll the death bells when someone passes.  I then know that 24 hours later (or close to it) there will be a funeral at the church.  Italian funerals are traditionally open to everyone in the village or town to attend. Posters announcing the death are posted almost immediately.  These posters are hung throughout the town to alert people of the deceased passing and details of when the funeral will be.

This poster announced the passing of my mothers cousin

So after the passing the funeral home will prepare the body at the house.  Friends and family then come to visit at the home of the deceased.  That was quite alarming when I saw it but quickly realized this was the norm for Italy and just take a deep breath.  Walking into a house and finding an open casket and body was totally foreign to me.  I'm not big on funerals to begin with but then to have this in a home - quite unsettling.  There is no way to avoid seeing the casket.  Out of respect you must pass and then greet the family.   The houses are usually small and the room was most likely a bedroom.  There are seats around the room surrounding the casket.  Everyone sits but pretty much in silence.  After awhile you leave and allow others to come in and sit for awhile.  Flowers from family and friends are brought to the house.  We went to the home the day of the funeral and then went to the church right from there.  There is a car that transports all the flowers ahead of the hearse.  Once at the church the casket will be brought into the church along with a few flowers.  Many times if the house is near the church people will walk behind the hearse as it moves toward the church.  The service is a catholic mass but no eulogy or comments from friends or family.  

After the mass the casket is taken out of the church into the hearse and then there is a processional direct to the cemetery.  Usually each village has its own cemetery.  Most, if not all of the attendees, will walk behind the hearse to the cemetery.  Those unable to walk will drive their car.

Italian cemeteries are above ground as you saw in the photos above.  The casket is placed in the space reserved by the family.  All the attendees then stand and watch as a mason closes up the "grave" with brick and mortar.  Another unsettling experience.  Some months later the engraved "headstone" will be put in place.  Many times while this is happening people will take many of the flowers and take them to other graves of family members or friends. That then ends the service.  One of the most astonishing things is - for EVERY occasion here in southern Italy there is always food.  NOT for a funeral. I was kind of shocked.  You would think there might be a family dinner at least - no - nothing.  There will be a mass one week, one month and one year after the passing.   A few days after the funeral many times notices of thanks from the family are then posted on the notice boards throughout the village.  

Out of respect for all I have not included any photos of the funeral processions or burials. 

I look forward to writing a more uplifting blog next but rest assured that history, tradition, heritage and legacies are all alive and well in southern Italy.  

Il Meraviglioso Fico (The Wonderful Fig)

lunedi, 29 ottobre

I realize August is long past as November is a few days away but I wanted to tell you about Fig season.  August is the time for harvesting figs.  Last August of 2017 I didn't do much other than pick them fresh and eat them.  This year I wanted to learn how to dry and stuff them as all good southern Italian women AND men do.  So another FIRST for me.  The white fig is exceptional and is the best one for drying and stuffing.  I have many trees on the land.  There is the large one near the house that I have shown before but behind the house there must be 7 or 8 more trees.  More figs than one person can eat.  

This August a friend of the family came to teach me how to harvest figs and prepare them for drying.  Then once the figs were dried (that takes a few weeks) she came back and taught me the rest of the process.

The large fig tree near my house

A bountiful harvest

You can harvest figs for weeks in August
depending on when they are ready.  A tree will bear
fruit for quite a long time so continual harvesting is necessary.

Some figs are cut open and laid on the grate for drying.
 Normally this grate would be full but I am only doing
a small amount this time

Other figs are dried whole.  Many have already started
drying prior to being picked

The whole drying process can take a few weeks, depending on the weather.  They must remain outside in the sun.  Once dry the stuffing process can begin.  

After they are dried, you need to boil them in water.  Before the water boils you slice off the skin and white part of an orange and lemon and put this in the water.  Once the water boils add bay leaves and juice from a little of the orange.  Squeeze a few slices into the water. Add the figs and let them boil for 2 minutes.  Continue until all figs have been boiled.  You remove the figs and put them on a cookie sheet with a towel to absorb the water.  Then lay them on a cookie sheet with parchment paper.    They will then be baked in the oven.

The boiling process

Figs ready for the oven

Whole figs are baked in the oven as well.

The figs are cooked until they turn golden brown

While the figs bake, you chop up the rind and white of more of the orange and lemon.  You also chop the nuts, usually walnuts or almonds, in small pieces.

Once out of the oven you now stuff them.  When stuffing the cut ones you match up two similar size figs. You then put a piece of lemon, orange, nut and a little finocchio (fennel seed) on each piece of fig.  Lay one open fig on top of another to make a sandwich of two figs.  Squeeze them together and lay them on a cookie sheet.  Then you take 2 wooden skewers and then layer the figs on two skewers. 

For the whole figs you cut a slice in the top of the fig. You then insert a piece of orange, lemon, nut and finocchio.  Then close the opening and put the fig on the cookie sheet. These can then be dipped in melted chocolate at a later time - a great way to serve them at Christmas time.   All the figs can be wrapped in parchment paper and kept for quite some time.  

And check out the short video! 

https://youtu.be/Ga4diUALbZ0

The finished product!!

It is wonderful to see all the traditions that are carried forward to future generations in southern Italy.  There are so many more to learn!!

The Summer of Sagre

sabato, 1 settembre

Apologies for the lengthy time between posts.  This summer has been very busy with family visits, work in my garden, a few little trips and sagre (plural for sagra).  I know I told you about sagre in a post from last summer but I really got a taste (literally) of them this year so thought I would give you a more detailed review of what a sagra is along with lots of pictures from the many that I attended.  

Starting in June up to this past week I have attended 12 sagre this summer.  A sagra is really just a festival with food and music and local crafts.  But each village brings a unique approach to their sagra.  Some will feature a specific food - for example cherries, grain, beans, fish, wine, etc.  Some just have a variety of foods - many of them featuring true Cilentano food (food from the local area made by many of the women in the village).

There is always a menu for each sagra, many allowing you to either buy items individually or buy a "completo menu" - the entire meal which would consist of antipasto, primi piatti, secondi piatti, contorni and dolce (which means lots of food!).  I did notice on almost all menus they always offer French fries as a separate item.  Italians love them!!  Then off course there are beverages - water, wine, beer.  Many of the small sagra only offer "Vino locale" (local wine) but the larger ones will offer some bottled wine as well.  

There was a sagra featuring wines - I must say this was my favorite (no surprise there - right?).  There were 10 local wineries offering wine.  There were different food stands as well.  This sagra or festival was in Castellabate which is a larger village and famous for the movie, "Benvenuti al Sud".  They had great music too.

All the sagre have music and usually it will be the local Cilentano music.  After attending 12 sagre I could sing right along to the music as I had heard the same songs over and over.  But I never tire of them as they are fun, upbeat and great to dance to!!

Most of the sagre take place in August.  August is vacation time in Italy.  Many businesses close for the month or part of the month.  Many Italians head to the sea or back to their home area to visit with family.  The area I live in becomes a mad house in August.  Too many people and way too much traffic for the small villages but you take it in stride knowing there is an end to the madness.  But the good thing about August is the sagra.  I have attached a map and list of the sagre - and this is just August!!!!  You literally could go the entire month without cooking.

Some sagre are actually like restaurants (but outside).  There will be lots of tables, usually in a beautiful treed area or country setting.  Sometimes you can find your own table to sit at, others you must wait for your number to be called and they seat you.  Once seated there is a wait person who will greet you and take care of you while you are there.  They take your order, bring your food and collect your money at the end of the evening.  Most of these servers are the younger residents (20-somethings) of the village.  The teens also get in the act by helping as table clearers, etc.  Many times the servers will be in dressed in cilentano costumes other times in the tee shirts advertising their sagra.  Other sagre will have all the various food stands and you purchase your food and can either stand or take a seat at many tables positioned throughout the area.  

Sagre are one of the highlights of summer in southern Italy.  Enjoy some of my pictures!!

Cousin Antonio and wife Anna with a ball
of Caciocavallo cheese.  This was then cut in pieces
for all of us to enjoy after our meal!

Beautiful setting for a Sagra of Ancient Grains
The silo on the left has been converted into
a small apartment to rent at this Agriturismo.

The beautiful Castle at night
in Castelnuovo Cilento

The lights are up and ready for the sagra

This is am amazing thing - sliced peaches in wine!!!!A wonderful and very typical southern Italy desert!Don't you love how they prepare it - in big plastic tubs!

This was the Festa nel Bosco (Party in the woods) 
The picture doesn't do it justice 
and yes you are sitting in the middle of a forest for this one!!

All the villages use the opportunity to showcase 

their beautiful churches.

Cheese vendor selling his product at a sagra

The village of Ostigliano had amazing

displays of old equipment and tools.  This 

is an old olive press

Another piece of machinery used in the 

olive pressing process

An old grain mill

Antique tools used in farming the

land of southern Italy

A little vino anyone?

The village of Pattano had an international sagra

Foods from many countries were available - even

the U.S.   Here you could buy hamburgers, pulled pork sandwiches

and French fries.  I chose to pass this one by!

Fish and Chips from the UK

Spain was also represented

Gelato served with nuts and figs! 

This was heaven!

German frankfurter anyone?

And even Brazilian meat!!

This was one of the most interesting and 

unique sagre.  The village is much larger so could

offer more and manage the crowds with ease

The village of Stio has the best food in my opinion.

  Their sagra is called Ciccimmaretati.

It does not translate but it is the best bean/grain stew ever.

I also had some stuffed eggplant.

They also have great seating.  Little tables

with roofs and lighting.  Here you have a number

and must wait for a table.  It is always jam packed

with people.  The trick is to get there early (by 9 p.m.)

When we left after 11 p.m. the people were still streaming in 

and there was a long wait for a table.

This is a chestnut before it is 

mature and ready to be picked. 

Stio is famous for their chestnuts and they have 

a Festival of Chestnuts in the fall. 

A chestnut tree.  All the little fuzzy circles

are chestnuts.  The area is full of chestnut trees.

The wine sagra in Castellabate!!!

Love the decorations throughout

Very creative with purple and green balloons

The streets of Castellabate during

the wine sagra

The beautiful view from Castellabate.  The lights below

are Santa Maria di Castellabate and 

the lights way in the distance are the Amalfi coast.

La bella luna!  Buona notte from the Summer of Sagre!!