I just returned from a few days in Siena. Siena is a beautiful medieval city. I have been there a few times but this trip was specifically to see the magic and pageantry of the "Palio".
I posted quite a few pictures on Facebook but here is the back story to the photos and the race. I have inserted still photos throughout the blog but I have also created a video and the YouTube link is at the end.
The Palio is a horse race but not just any horse race. This race dates back to 1633. Now that's historic! Siena's neighbourhoods are called Contrade. Originally there were 50+ contrade but today there are 17. Each one has a name, for example, Eagle, Snail, Little Owl, She-wolf, Dragon, Unicorn, etc. as well as colours and a symbol. In addition each contrada has a church, museum, fountain and baptismal font, etc. For this Palio 10 contrade are selected to participate in the race. The selection process is unique as is everything about this race. As in Italy many rules but rules can be broken (of course).
There are 2 races each year - July 2nd and August 16th. Each one is named and in honour of Madonna of Provenzano (July 2nd) and Assumption of Mary (August 16th). There are many festivities a few days ahead of race day. I chose to only attend on race day.
I arrived early in the morning on Monday. I decided to go to the Piazza del Campo and get some "before" pictures. On my way I stopped for caffè and pastry in one of the famous pastry shops. As I was leaving the shop a horse was being led down the street - ok change of plans - FOLLOW THAT HORSE! There are 4 trial runs before the race, the last one being run in the morning of the race. This horse had just finished his trial (which I did not know at the time). I just knew I had to follow that horse and see where he was going. So I became part of the large group following this horse. We arrived at his stable within the contrada. I then learned I had been following the horse for She-Wolf or in Italian "Lupa". I watched for quite some time as they tended to her. She was given water and a bath and then some exercise. It was very peaceful and I was able to get lots of pictures of her and her caregivers.
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| All 17 flags for the contrade are flying here (not real easy to see) Palazzo Salimbeni |
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| Following the crowd that is following the horse |
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| The horse "Sorighittu" for La Lupa contrada |
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| Preparing to re-shoe her. |
I then decided to just wander around the city to do a little shopping and enjoy the atmosphere. As I walked I was able to get pictures of the flags as I walked through the many contrade. I had plenty of time as the race didn't start (or so I thought - but more on that later) until 7:30 p.m. But I knew I had to get to the Piazza del Campo early if I wanted a good spot. All the space in the center of the Piazza is free but you must sit and wait once inside. You can buy a ticket for a seat in one of the many bleachers that are around the outside of the piazza. They are hard to come by and you must plan well in advance. In addition all the buildings around the piazza have seating at each window. I assume they are VIP type seats/tickets and go to those in the know, politicians, business people, etc. Today I would be with the sea of people in the center.
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| Flags are everywhere within the contrada |
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| Siena is very hilly so lots of exercise as you walk around the city |
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| Another contrada |
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| Even without the Palio Siena is fabulous |
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| Some amazing architecture within Piazza del Campo |
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| And of course Italian fountains are fabulous |
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| An old drinking fountain - and it still works and you can drink the water (I didn't however) |
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| Notice the bell having above |
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| Second window from the right - Italian politicians that were recently elected. These are VIP seats I guess. 😝 |
Around 3:30 I decided to go grab my spot. I was able to find some shade and a good spot near the "mossa" or Start line. Time would tell if they were great seats or just ok seats. Around 5:30 the festivities begin. There is a mounted horse guard that enters the track. After that the procession begins. Each contrada will march in - with their horse, flag bearers, and other costumed participants. Their costumes are the same as in medieval times some even wearing armour. The colours and pageantry are amazing. At the end a wagon enters and it is pulled by 4 large white oxen. The coveted banner that will go to the winner is displayed on the wagon.
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| All participants from the procession are now seating in special bleachers infront of the building. The race is about the start. |
It is now close to 7:30 and the race will start soon. The horses enter and the crowd goes crazy as you can imagine. The jockeys are riding bare back. And I'm told some will fall off during the race but if a horse crosses the finish line first without a jockey he/she can still be the winner - no jockey necessary. The jockeys and horses are all near the start and a hush comes over the crowd. Who knew that that many people could be quiet for so long. I caught most of this on the video. The starter will now announce the position of the horses on the start line. Once announced they are called to the start line. This process will now be repeated numerous times and the race really does not start for another HOUR!!! As you will see in the race video there really are no gates like we use in our races so the horses are side by side and jockeys play games with each other - trying to prevent each other from coming to the line. This is all the gamesmanship that goes on. I learn later this is normal and this was a "short" Mossa. HA - I about died. There were two false starts (but also maybe just a false start to allow the horses to run off some steam - they had been out there for quite some time). Finally the race starts and its over in less than 2 minutes. 3 jockeys fall off - but "Drago" or Dragon is victorious. And the members of that Contrada go crazy as you can imagine. The horse and jockey and members of the Contrada now leave the Piazza and head to the Chiesa Della Madonna di Provenzano (Church of the Madonna of Provenzano) for which the race is named, where the jockey and horse are celebrated inside the church.
I asked my cousin and her boyfriend (who were my hosts) if betting is allowed on the race. Absolutely not they said - this is a "holy race" - yet the jockeys can pay each other off - which happens alot. If one contrada wants to make sure their enemy contrada does not win they can pay another jockey to cause trouble (not allowing them to the start line, etc.) So there is alot of underhanded activity among the jockeys - but hey - this is a "holy race" - HAHA!! Only in Italy.
I was back in the city the following morning for sometime before my bus left in the afternoon. As I entered the city I could hear drums - so I followed the sound and wound up at the church in the Dragon Contrada. A victory procession was just starting to form. They would march though the city again today. One of many celebrations that would occur all year long.
It was an amazing experience and one I would like to experience again in a few years. This is one of the things I love about Italy - they embrace their culture and history and it is celebrated in so many ways. Complimenti Drago!!!
Here is the link to my YouTube Video of the day.
https://youtu.be/l6RAYl8h7oM
Here is a short video of the actual race as called on Italian television.
https://youtu.be/obGwP19sJLs
